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Joel Tudor at Malibu summer, 2019.
"Malibu is Joel’s institutional backside dojo. See how he surfs on vintage 1964 Yater. It’s perfect example of trim including, footwork, drop-knee, and noseride with grace." - Tatsuo Takei
nks for sharing the article, and more importantly, your personal experience mindfully using our emotions as data about our inner state and knowing when it’s better to de-escalate by taking a time out are great tools. Appreciate you reading and sharing your story since I can certainly relate and I think others can to
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