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#TBT: Lance Carson - Malibu, 1963

Bruce Brown footage
"You know, human beings just take, take, take from the natural environment and not many put anything back. Like Malibu sits there year after year, and gets surfed and surfed, and how many people who've used it give anything back? How do you pay back for all the years you've surfed and partied and taken from the beach and that special element?
People don't care about anything today. It's like, "I'm gonna get down to the beach, and I'm gonna take all the waves I can, and I don't care what happens to the beach beyond that." I mean, how many people are aware, sitting out in the water at Malibu, that there's the Santa Monica mountains. But no, there they all are, sitting with their heads stuck up in the air, staring out to sea, anxiously looking for the next set, necks stretched out like a bunch of cranes. They're not even aware of what's going on around them. I mean, it's beautiful...
Look, I don't get into any big philosophical stuff, but I'm trying to spread some appreciation and awareness. When I go to the beach I don't amp up to go surfing. I try to psyche down, relax. I'm not trying to get in anyone's way, not trying to get in any hassles. I'm trying to relax, enjoy what's around me." - Lance in Surfer, 1984


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